17 



o^sR coio^. 




PATENTED. 




COPYRIGHT 1903. 
By MARY P. C. HOOPER. 



TOP WARP HOLDER. 




Two Copies Rsceivec' [ 

Ji^AV 2 1903 1 

CO PY. S. [ 








LOOM REST. 




HEDDLE. 



SHUTTLE. 



LAY 




BOTTOM WARP HOLDER. 




CL 



CT 



SIDE WIRES. 



RUBBER BANDS. 

=3 €= 



;'" / 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



Please read the instructions and examine in connection with illustra- 
tion on page two, the different parts of the loom before attempting to put 
them together, and learn the name of each part of the loom as illustrated. 

It will be seen there are eight perforations on either side of the main 
board; there will also be found four wooden pins in the box. These 
wooden pins are intended to hold the warp holders apart, and the per- 
forations determine the size of the piece to be woven. 

TO MAKE THE LOOM. 

Place the wooden pins in the perforations of main board as shown on page 
one, push the ends of main board through the warp holders with the teeth of 
the warp holders turning backward from each other. (The teeth turning 
backward keep the warp strings from coming off, which might be the case if 
the warp holders stood erect.) Bring the warp holders close against the pins, 
place the loom rest in the groove on the underside of the top warp holder as 
shown in Fig. 4. (This groove makes it the top warp holder) and the main 
board with the warp holders attached thereto becomes an incline. Now place 
the heddle at the lower end of the incline and the loom is made. 

THE LAY. 

The use of the lay is a very important feature in weaving. No weaving 
can be well done without it. It should be used to pack every woof string. It 
not only packs the woof string as desired, but keeps the warp strings apart 
and at a proper distance from each other. This must be done. 

NEVER DRAW THE WOOF TIGHT. 

Particular attention should be paid to the way in which the woof string is 
drawn through the shed. It should be left as shown in figure one ; never 
drawn straight across the warp, but packed straight with the lay. More lax 
woof should be left from woqI than cotton or silk, as wool is more elastic. If 
attention is paid to this any drawing in at the center of the piece woven 
will be avoided. 

DRAW THE WARP STRINGS TIGHT. 

The warp string should always be drawn tightly around the warp 
holders, cotton and silk as tightly as possible, wool tight enough to weave 
smoothly. Good weaving greatly depends on the way in which the warp is 
put on the warp holders. 




WARP. — The 
Strings which 
are extended 
i.engthwise oe 
the loom and 
are crossed by 

THE WOOF. 

WOOF.— The 

String that 
crosses the 
warp in weav- 
ING. 



Fig. I. 



TO BEGIN WORK. 



Place the warp in one of the slots on the end of the main board, back of the top warp 
holder, then pass the warp in straight lines back and forth from one warp holder to 
the other, and if the heddle is placed so that the flat side of the handle is up the warp 
will rest in the grooves of the heddle, thus forming a shed or opening of the warp for 
the passage of the shuttle or woof carrier. When this is done put the loop end of t ach 
wire over one of the teeth of the bottom warp holder, and the other ends of the wires 
between corresponding teeth of the top warp holder. One rubber band is placed over 
the wires on the teeth of the bottom warp holder but the other ends of the wires must be 
securely fastened against the teeth of the top warp holder in a straight line from the 
bottom warp holder. This can be done by wrapping the rubber band around the end of 
the wire and the tooth of the top warp holder binding the wire and the tooth together, 
then draw the other end of the band across the warp holder and fasten the end of the 
other wire in the same way. These wires lie in the grooves of the heddle and act as a 
warp string on either side of the loom. 




TO WEAVE. 

Put the woof string in the >^^V.ii|%..4 -ilit%^ 
shuttle, pass the shuttle through i 
the .shed, and by turning the 
heddle, always keeping the 
flat side of handle tip, another i 
shed is formed, and so on, thus 
the weaving is done. 

TO REMOVE THE WORK. 

Take the lower pins out, allow- 
ing the warp holder to move j \^ 
up a little. Remove the rubber 
bands, then draw the wires out, 
and the fabric is easily removed 
from the warp holders. Fig. 3. 



Fig. 2. 



TO WEAVE A TOWEL. 

As SHOWN IN Fig. i. 

Make a knot in one end of the^warp string and place that end in a slot back of the 
top warp holder, bring the string through the teeth in front of the slot and across 
the heddle to the bottom warp holder and back again to the upper warp holder and so 
on in straight lines around ten teeth, as shown in figure one. Fasten the other end of 
the warp string back of the tenth tooth and around one or two of the slots to keep it 
secure, and cut it off. Take up every bit of the slack string, holding one string after 
another until there is no slack left in the warp. Hold the slack string and again 
fasten firmly. Measure six yards of woof string. Tie one end around the wire and 
fir^t warp string on the left hand side of the loom, one inch and a half belo,w the teeth 
of the top warp holder. * Fold the woof string three times in one yard and a half 
lengths. Put the doubled end through the shuttle as shown in figure one. It will be 
seen there is one yard and a half .left single and that single end is attached to the 
loom. Now pass the shuttle with the doubled woof through the shed and weave till 
the single end is used up. Then take another length from the shtittle and so on until 
within an inch and a half of the bottom warp holder. Place the shuttle under the 
warp strings, and over the heddle as shown in Fig. 13, thus raising the warp strings 
from the grooves of the heddle, draw the heddle out without touching the warp 
strings. This leaves a fringe at both ends of the towel to be cut and tied as shown in 
figure 2, or finished with a button hole stitch made by the shuttle being passed 
through the warp strings with a short piece of the woof, as shown in Fig. 3, the ends 
of which fall in with the fringe. Lay the towel on the table, comb the fringe with the 
lay and cut it even. 

The warp of Fig. 2 is the same as Fig. 3 but the woof string is doubled. 




Fig. 4. 

Fig. 4 shows a square of plaid with fringe. The fringe on two sides has been 
tied while weaving and the wires have been taken out. The fringe at the ends is 
shown partly tied. 

Fig. 5 shows the same piece after it is finished and taken from the loom, before 
the fringe -is combed and cut. 

Fig. 6 is made by alternating every two warp and woof strings, for instance, take 
two pink and alternate with two green. Cut the woof strings and alternate the 
same way. 




Fig. 5. 






f 



o 



Fig. 6. 



^ 



^^^ %\ T 

* i H I I I I I f t 

1 ''♦«»'' I • ' 






Fij 



7- 



TO MAKE RAG CARPET 
AS SHOWN IN FIQ. 7. 

Put the warp on the loom in the 
usual way. Cut rags in strips and sew 
them together. These rags are used 
as woof. 



. lni» 



Fig. 8. 

To weave elastic ribbon as shown 
in Fig. 8, use elastic bands as warp. 
Each band forms two warp strings. 
Any thread can be used as woof. 
Weave close to the heddle. If packed 
well with the lay it can then be taken 
off and will be found that both ends 
are finished. Use the side wires as in 
any other weaving. The woof of Fig. 
8 is of knitting cotton. 




Fig. 9. 

TO MAKE A HAMMOCK. No. 9. 

Warp of unbleached carpet warp. Woof of green and white carpet warp. Put 
the warp on same as the towel but continue the warp strings across the loom. 
Fasten the same as towel. Cut the woof strings long enough to make fringe at the 
sides of the hammock. Weave four green woof strings. Pack well with the lay. Tie 
every two strings as woven. Put four green strings into the shuttle and draw them 
through the shed together. Be sure to lay them flat. Now proceed to weave four 
green strings as the first four were done. It will be seen that this forms the stripe. 
Weave the white stripe the same way. Do not cut the warp strings when taken off the 
loom. These loops are used for the ends of the hammock as shown in Fig. 9. 



Boys' Reins. 




TO WEAVE LONGER THAN THE LOOM. 

Cut the warp as long again as the length of the piece to be woven Put each 
length of warp around a tooth of the top warp holder, bring the two ends over 
the heddle and through the teeth of the bottom warp holder and fasten the two 
lengths of warp in a slot back of the bottom warp holder. 

When the weaving has been done as far as the heddle, take the fabric off and place 
it back of the top warp holder as shown in Fig. 29, now bring the warp through the 
teeth of the bottom warp holder and again fasten the warp in the slots back of the 
bottom warp holder as shown in Fig. 29. In this way any length can be woven. 



TO MAKE AN 

IRON HOLDER. 

As SHOWN IN Fig. io. 

The warp is of knitting 
cotton No. 4. The woof is 
of candle wicking. The loop 
is made from the end of the 
warp. The iron holder is 
dotible. Wash and dish 
cloths can be made by weav- 
ing- and sewing the pieces 
together. 



^ 



Fig. 10. 




Fig-. II. 









Fig. 12. 



TO MAKE JAPANESE MATTING. 

As SHOWN IN Fig. 12. 

Warp of knitting cotton. Woof of raffia. 

RAFFIA MAT. 

As SHOWN IN Fig. II. 

Put the end of the raffia firmly in the slots back of the warp holders. 
Fasten well at both ends. Select a long piece of raffia to use as woof string. 
When necessary to join, lay one piece of woof next to the other and pack 
well with the lay. The ends of the raffia in the slots are left for fringe. 



TO PREPARE RAFFIA FOR WEAVING. 

Soak the raffia well in warm water and wrap in a dry cloth for a few 
minutes. Pretty bags and many other things can be woven from raffia. 




Fig- 13- 
TO MAKE A FIRM AND PERFECT EDGE. 

Let the first warp string be longer than the piece to be woven. If the woof 
has not been packed close enough to fill the space left by the teeth of the warp 
holders when the fabric is taken off the loom, the end of the first warp string which 
is longer than the piece woven can be used as woof, and a perfect edge made by the 
use of a darning needle. 



BABIES' SHOES. 



13. 



Eight Ply Qermantown Yarn as shown in Fig. 

Fasten the yarn in the slots on the left side of the loom back of the 
top warp holder twelve inches from the end of the yarn, then around 
eight teeth of the warp holders, fasten the yarn in a slot back of the 
ninth tooth of the top warp holder on the right side of the loom to keep 
the warp from slipping. Place the loop end of the side wires over the 
teeth of the bottom warp holder as shown in Fig. 13, put one rubber 
band on the bottom warp holder, now bring the yarn around the ninth 




Fig. 14. 





Fig. 16. 



Fig- 15- 



tooth and down over the rubber band and fasten again in a slot back of 
the bottom warp-holder, then fasten the loose ends of the wires against 
the teeth of the top warp holder with the other rubber band. 

Measure six yards of yarn and fold three times in yard and a half 
lengths; put the doubled end in the shuttle. Take the yarn out of the 
slot and weave once across without passing over the right side wire as 
shown in Fig. 13, now weave under and over both wires until the 
distance from the bottom warp holder equals the width of the shoe from 
the left side wire to the last warp string on the right. Weave as shown in 
Fig. 13 close to the heddle, then place the shuttle under the warp and 
over the heddle as shown in Fig. 13, and remove the heddle, weave 
without the heddle close to the warp holder. 

Take the shoe off the loom and finish as shown in Fig. 14. Sew 
together as shown in Fig, 15. Sew the upper to the sole as shown in 
Fig. 16. 

The first and last six warp strings should be packed close together 
so as to fill the space left by the teeth of the warp holders when the shoe 
is taken off the loom. 




Fig. 17. 
Sofa Pillow of Mercerized Floss and Ribbon. 





\ 










Sofa Pillow of 


Fig 
Knitt 


18. 
ng Silk 


and Ribbon. 












•,*'*• 

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/# 


.1 















Fig. 19. Smyrna Rug. 





Fig. 20. Rug woven with two shuttles. 




^m^V'^'W^ 



Fig. 21. Afghan, showing two sides. 



No. 22. Afghan. 




»«^ ^ MM „. 

mm:::::::: U::::iii;:J 



ja 14; J^P|||||-j|^.|}|f }U|-|^1^^ 



Fig. 23. 
On the Ivoom. 



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Hk m ii r »"inr»-*-i, * ♦ -r* > 



I M » M •« M W 1 



«» 



MMMM<f*l»««M»«Kltl||lt«t»' 



Fig. 24. 
Plain Rug. 




Fig- 23. 
Off the Loom. 



13 



018 533 227 5 



HOOPER COLONIAL LOOM. 



Prices of Parts of Loom< 



^ 



Main Board, 
Warp HoIvDKrs, 
L^ooM Rest, 
Heddi^e, 
Lay, 

SHUTTI.E, 

Short Shutti^e, 
Side Wires, 
Pegs, 



.20C. each. By 

•25 

•05 

•15 

•15 

.10 

.10 

.08 

.08 



per set. 



Mail .09c. extra. 

.03 
" .02 
" .02 
" .01 
" .01 
" .01 
" .01 
" .01 



Manufactured by 

RICHARD BRUSSEL, 

490 S. 492 East 1 39tti Street, 

NEW YORK, N. Y- 



14 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




018 533 227 5 • 




HoUinger Corp. 
pH8.5 



